Electric Motor as Generator

[nucleus]

yung standard alternator ng sasakyan kapag binago yung regulator at kelangang may standby na battery pwede din yun magoutput kahit mabagal lang ang ikot

[SexyPaint]

may nabasa ako sa internet yung alternator ng sasakyan nga, yung rotor lagyan mo pa ng dalawang magnet(magnet ng speaker) para masmataas output...

[bravokilo]

The car alternator is not efficient cuz it has no permanent magnets.  You can replace the rotor with magnets, neodyms. Parejo na and field nyan sa homebuilts. mabusisi.  Wla na siya regulation kasi nasa rotor ang regulation.  Mayroon sa web on how to make homebuilts generator na AC. Plywood pa nga ginagamit to hold the coils. Yung hub ng harap ng kotse guinagamit. Now if you have an old ceiling fan. yng maga China ceiling fan for P150, puro magnets sa loob. Just modify the coils pero maliit.

Why bother with induction motors na mayroon naman generators na from old gensets de gaso. pero hi speed and good torque ang kailangan. That is the reason why DC and batt combi is popular dahil e accumulate muna ng maliit na current in a battery.

Start with a model in miniature like using a stepper motor as the generator. may PM sa loob mga yan.

BK  

[jamz]

Share ko lang etong napulot ko sa internet.

Gawa na lang tayo ng motor.  this is 100 watts according to docs. Use na lang your creativity to produce one, tanggalin lang ang propeller at  mapaikot mo lang ito sa kahit anong paraan, meron ka nang power source.  Kailangan din nito ng magnets.. Meron ba kayong alam ng mapagkukunan ng magnets dito sa pinas.  Medyo pahirapan kasi. Di ko pa na-try yung source ng magnet d2 sa pinas

Magnet source: Meron na bang nakabili d2?
http://dstechcafe.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=2:buy-magnets&catid=2:magnets&Itemid=7

Eto yung docs.
https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B_sig41IqGKlZWEwODI5MWItYjM2ZS00YzA0LWJlZjMtNWVkOTcwZDU3ZGYz&hl=en&authkey=CPKeu9QH

[zHangGoku]

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[iyo karpo]

yung standard alternator ng sasakyan kapag binago yung regulator at kelangang may standby na battery pwede din yun magoutput kahit mabagal lang ang ikot

damihan mo ang turns sa stator winding at gamitin lng ung maliit na magnet wire.

[nucleus]

damihan mo ang turns sa stator winding at gamitin lng ung maliit na magnet wire.

nope, gagawin lang source ng field yung battery at yung output ay nagchacharge sa battery, sa original kasi may sariling winding yung source ng field pero kung mabagal ang ikot di nya masusupplyan ng pasimula yung fieald kaya walang output

[iyo karpo]

since the rotor is energized by a dc source (battery) via slip ring at the shaft,

more turns in stator winding = higher voltage output

more speed (rpm) = higher voltage output

http://homepower.com/article/?file=HP113_pg10_ATE_5

If you use a car alternator in a wind turbine, the speed problem can be addressed in one of several unsatisfactory ways:

    * Use a small blade area so that the short blades can spin at high rpm. This means that you cannot catch much wind, and even so, you will need a high wind speed to get the necessary rpm. It will also take a lot of wind to produce high enough power to excite the magnetic field and actually have energy to spare.
    * Use gearing to increase the rpm. This involves extra cost, extra losses, extra unreliability, and overall ugly and clumsy engineering.
    * Rewind the coils to work at lower speed. This means more turns of thinner wire in each coil. This reduces the cut-in rpm, but also increases the losses in the coils themselves, limiting the power output and further reducing the already low efficiency.

[jamz]

since the rotor is energized by a dc source (battery) via slip ring at the shaft,

more turns in stator winding = higher voltage output

more speed (rpm) = higher voltage output

http://homepower.com/article/?file=HP113_pg10_ATE_5

If you use a car alternator in a wind turbine, the speed problem can be addressed in one of several unsatisfactory ways:

    * Use a small blade area so that the short blades can spin at high rpm. This means that you cannot catch much wind, and even so, you will need a high wind speed to get the necessary rpm. It will also take a lot of wind to produce high enough power to excite the magnetic field and actually have energy to spare.
    * Use gearing to increase the rpm. This involves extra cost, extra losses, extra unreliability, and overall ugly and clumsy engineering.
    * Rewind the coils to work at lower speed. This means more turns of thinner wire in each coil. This reduces the cut-in rpm, but also increases the losses in the coils themselves, limiting the power output and further reducing the already low efficiency.

That means ang car alternator na unmodified ay di suitable para sa windmill.
Meron pang isang pwedeng gawin. since kailangan ng high rpm ang car alternator, pwede siyang ikabit sa generator, which you can buy second hand sa malapit sa raon area. mostly ang speed ng gas powerered generator ay 3600 rpm, which is enough to make the alternator charge the batteries.
Di ko lang alam kung feasible at mas makakatipid kung ganoon ang setup.

[iyo karpo]

kung minsan walang hangin, low rpm alternator ang kailangan.

ung alternator ng car mo, rated high rpm un. indi maka build up ng enough voltage kung mahina ang hangin.

[nucleus]

since the rotor is energized by a dc source (battery) via slip ring at the shaft,

more turns in stator winding = higher voltage output

more speed (rpm) = higher voltage output

http://homepower.com/article/?file=HP113_pg10_ATE_5

If you use a car alternator in a wind turbine, the speed problem can be addressed in one of several unsatisfactory ways:

    * Use a small blade area so that the short blades can spin at high rpm. This means that you cannot catch much wind, and even so, you will need a high wind speed to get the necessary rpm. It will also take a lot of wind to produce high enough power to excite the magnetic field and actually have energy to spare.
    * Use gearing to increase the rpm. This involves extra cost, extra losses, extra unreliability, and overall ugly and clumsy engineering.
    * Rewind the coils to work at lower speed. This means more turns of thinner wire in each coil. This reduces the cut-in rpm, but also increases the losses in the coils themselves, limiting the power output and further reducing the already low efficiency.

master alam mo ba na kahit 3V battery lang ang ikabit mo sa field ng car alternator ay magououtput na ng mataas yung stator? kailangan lang naman magexcite yung windings, kaya hindi nagououtput yung car alternator sa low rpm ay dahil yung pag excite ng windings ay nanggagaling lang sa kaunting magnet na naiwan sa armature

[iyo karpo]

the rotor's field coil is energized by a battery connected to the slip ring of the shaft. kung mahina na ang battery, mahina din ang magnetic flux generated by the rotor.

ang voltage output depende yan sa flux cut by the stator coil and the rpm of the rotor.

[bravokilo]

Kunin natin ang hub ng bike. may shaft yun. fix the housing to a bracket. ang iikot ay ang shaft. One one side, ikabit ng blades. Sa kabila bolt on a chopping board na circular. Dun nkaglue ang mga magnets. Tapat ang magnets is the field coil.

Mas mdali gamitin ng radiator fan motor. Extend the blades or attached to a vertical turbine The coupling is this way:

     leave the orig na blade pero with the wings(blads) removed at ma iwan and circular center. Bore 2 holes dun. yung shaft whether vertical of horizontal, may fork to inset into the holes.

BK

[jamz]

Kunin natin ang hub ng bike. may shaft yun. fix the housing to a bracket. ang iikot ay ang shaft. One one side, ikabit ng blades. Sa kabila bolt on a chopping board na circular. Dun nkaglue ang mga magnets. Tapat ang magnets is the field coil.

Mas mdali gamitin ng radiator fan motor. Extend the blades or attached to a vertical turbine The coupling is this way:

     leave the orig na blade pero with the wings(blads) removed at ma iwan and circular center. Bore 2 holes dun. yung shaft whether vertical of horizontal, may fork to inset into the holes.

BK

nagawa ko nang gumamit ng motor fan. kaya niya mag-charge ng 12v 7ah battery, kailangan mo ng high rpm din to get more than 12volts. ang common problem ko d2 ay kulang ang hangin, Ang kaya niyang i-charge ay ung mga 6volts lang na motorcycle batteries or mga nicad at nimh. Me paki-nabang naman kahit papaano.

[nucleus]

the rotor's field coil is energized by a battery connected to the slip ring of the shaft. kung mahina na ang battery, mahina din ang magnetic flux generated by the rotor.

ang voltage output depende yan sa flux cut by the stator coil and the rpm of the rotor.

ibig bang sabihin ay linear ang regulator na nakakabit sa car alternator?

[iyo karpo]

ibig bang sabihin ay linear ang regulator na nakakabit sa car alternator?

kung ang dc output ng battery fluctuating, fluctuating din ang flux ng rotor.

[nucleus]

kung ang dc output ng battery fluctuating, fluctuating din ang flux ng rotor.

di mo sir sinagot ang tanong ko,

btw, ang regulator ng car alternator ay maihahalintulad sa isang self oscillating flyback na SMPS kung saan yung direct na source ay ipinapasok sa field/rotor

[iyo karpo]

di mo sir sinagot ang tanong ko,

btw, ang regulator ng car alternator ay maihahalintulad sa isang self oscillating flyback na SMPS kung saan yung direct na source ay ipinapasok sa field/rotor

alternating current ang nasa flyback...

direct current ang nasa rotor... supplied by the battery. Hindi fluctuating ang current galing sa battery. Bakit my regulator pa?

[nucleus]

alternating current ang nasa flyback...

direct current ang nasa rotor... supplied by the battery. Hindi fluctuating ang current galing sa battery. Bakit my regulator pa?

DC po ang nasa flyback http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_converter although hindi talaga flyback ang nasa car alternator, parehas ang configuration nila

sa original na un modified car alternator hindi sa output/battery terminals ang source ng field/rotor. may sariling winding para sa supply ng field/rotor para maiwasan ang pagkadiskarga ng battery kapag iniwang nakaon ang susi

sa modified/converted sa battery nanggagaling ang supply ng field

"bakit may regulator pa?" tataas ang output ng upto 50V(12V car alternator) kapag pinasukan mo ng unswitched DC supply yung field/stator, ang regulator ng car alternator ay simpleng comparator lang naman, may supply yung field/stator hangga't sa umabot ng 13.8V(12V car alternator) yung output then saka iswitch off yung supply ng field/stator
babagsak ulit yung voltage at magoon na naman ang supply sa field/stator at maguulit ulit lang nangyayari ito ng paulit ulit at mabilis kaya kung susukatin ang output/battery terminal ay regulated na

[jamz]

"bakit may regulator pa?" tataas ang output ng upto 50V(12V car alternator) kapag pinasukan mo ng unswitched DC supply yung field/stator, ang regulator ng car alternator ay simpleng comparator lang naman, may supply yung field/stator hangga't sa umabot ng 13.8V(12V car alternator) yung output then saka iswitch off yung supply ng field/stator

50v ang output pag walang regulator? kung tatanggalin ba ang regulator ay pwede na sa low rpm ang car alternator para magamit sa windmill?